Recipe by Silvia Baldini — The Italian version of eggnog liqueur is known as VOV, derived from the Venetian-dialect term 'vovi,' meaning 'eggs.' This energetic and boozy bomb will warm you up and invigorate you. VOV was invented in 1845 by Gian Battista Pezziol, a confectioner from Padua specializing in nougat production, which required only egg whites. Pezziol decided to use the remaining egg yolks with Marsala wine, alcohol, and sugar, creating a zabajone liqueur and energy drink tonic. Drinks made with eggs have long been considered rejuvenating; many ancient recipes attest to their special power to 'awaken' love, revive the sick, and boost energy in general.
Ideally, you should sip it on the rocks by a fireplace after a day on the slopes, but it’s great anytime at room temperature as a garnish for ice cream or for dipping dry biscuits when you need a pick-me-up. Take your VOV to the next level and transform it into a 'Bombardino,' the original Après-Ski cocktail of any Italian mountain holiday. Just add a splash of brandy, a dollop of whipped cream, and a dusting of cinnamon or cocoa powder.
Recipe by Silvia Baldini — The Italian version of eggnog liqueur is known as VOV, derived from the Venetian-dialect term 'vovi,' meaning 'eggs.' This energetic and boozy bomb will warm you up and invigorate you. VOV was invented in 1845 by Gian Battista Pezziol, a confectioner from Padua specializing in nougat production, which required only egg whites. Pezziol decided to use the remaining egg yolks with Marsala wine, alcohol, and sugar, creating a zabajone liqueur and energy drink tonic. Drinks made with eggs have long been considered rejuvenating; many ancient recipes attest to their special power to 'awaken' love, revive the sick, and boost energy in general.
Ideally, you should sip it on the rocks by a fireplace after a day on the slopes, but it’s great anytime at room temperature as a garnish for ice cream or for dipping dry biscuits when you need a pick-me-up. Take your VOV to the next level and transform it into a 'Bombardino,' the original Après-Ski cocktail of any Italian mountain holiday. Just add a splash of brandy, a dollop of whipped cream, and a dusting of cinnamon or cocoa powder.
2cups grain alcohol, EverClear or unflavored vodka
1/2 cupcognac
Servings: quarts, 1 gallon
Instructions
Pour the milk into a large saucepan. Split the vanilla bean and scrape the seeds in to the milk, add the vanilla pod, the lemon zest. Bring the milk to a bare simmer over medium heat, without letting it boil. Remove from the heat and set aside. Discard the vanilla pod
Whisk together the egg yolks and the sugar until thick and light in color. Add a couple of tablespoons of the scalded milk to the egg yolks, whisking vigorously to prevent the yolks from curdling. Continue to whisk in the milk, a little at a time, until you have added it all. Gently whisk in the Marsala, the grain alcohol and the Cognac.
Pour the liqueur through a funnel into clean 750 ml glass bottles with a metal closure hinge. Refrigerate and rest for at least 3 days before serving the Vov. It will last for a month in the refrigerator. Remember to shake well before serving.
Recipe Notes
This recipe makes 4 quarts of Vov and it will fill at least five 750 ml bottles. A Vov bottle is a great present or stocking stuffer. You can halve the recipe for a smaller batch.
Recipe by Silvia Baldini — I have baked hundreds of wheat pies in search of the perfect one. This recipe is the one. I make a quick pasta frolla (crostata dough) by combining crumbly butter, flour and one egg. I cook the wheat berries in milk until creamy then blend half for a smooth but textured consistency. I mix the wheat with the drained ricotta, sugar, eggs, candied fruit and real orange blossom essence for the creamy filling. I wouldn't be honest if I didn't warn you— this pie is laborious and steps intensive. But the results are intoxicating.
Recipe by Silvia Baldini — I have baked hundreds of wheat pies in search of the perfect one. This recipe is the one. I make a quick pasta frolla (crostata dough) by combining crumbly butter, flour and one egg. I cook the wheat berries in milk until creamy then blend half for a smooth but textured consistency. I mix the wheat with the drained ricotta, sugar, eggs, candied fruit and real orange blossom essence for the creamy filling. I wouldn't be honest if I didn't warn you— this pie is laborious and steps intensive. But the results are intoxicating.
Place the butter, flour, sugar, lemon zest, egg and baking powder in the workbowl of a food processor fitted with a metal blade and pulse until all ingredients are blended, then process just until you have a smooth dough. Stop once or twice to scrape down the sides of the bowl. Wrap the dough in plastic film and chill for at least an hour, or up to 1 day.
Wheat Filling
Put the wheat grain in a heavy bottom medium sized pot. Mix in the milk add the butter and the lemon zest. Bring to a gentle simmer on a low flame and cook, stirring occasionally, until the wheat kernels are tender, and the milk is absorbed, about 15 to 20 minutes. Stir and scrape the bottom occasionally to avoid burning.
Place half of the cooked wheat filling in to a blender and blend until creamy and smooth. Scrape back in to the cooked wheat, mix well and set aside to cool off.
Ricotta Filling
Drain the ricotta in a sieve over a bowl until all the liquid is gone. You can drain the ricotta overnight or at least an hour before making the filling.
Place the drained ricotta in a large bowl. Add the eggs, sugar and mix with a wooden spoon then beat until light and fluffy. Add the orange zest, the orange blossom water, vanilla, salt and cinnamon if using. Mix. Scatter the candied fruit, if using and fold together with a rubber spatula until blended.
Fold the cooled wheat filling in to the ricotta cream and mix gently until incorporated.
Pie Assembly and Cooking
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F.
Butter a 9-inch springform pan. Roll out two-thirds of the dough into a 14-inch circle. Fold the circle in quarters, place one of the points in the center of the buttered pan and unfold the dough, pressing it gently against the bottoms and sides and into the corners of the pan.
Scrape the filling into the dough-lined pan. Make a lattice top by alternating strips of the pre-cut dough in alternating directions. Join the strips of dough to dough along the sides of the pan by pressing gently.
Traditionally in Italy we use 7 stripes of dough to make the lattice. Place 4 strips diagonally at the bottom and 3 on the top.
Bake until golden brown and the center feels springy, about 1 ½ hours. Remove and cool completely before serving. It will be better a day or two after baking. Once the pie is cooled off rest in a cool place wrapped with foil. Sprinkle with confectioners’ sugar before serving.
Recipe Notes
Use fresh sheep ricotta if available or a good quality artisanal cow milk ricotta
Drain the ricotta overnight. Place in a sieve over a bowl and rest covered in the refrigerator
You can buy canned or jarred cooked wheat on Amazon or in any good Italian deli
Use good quality orange blossom flower essence to avoid soapy taste
Recipe by Silvia Baldini – Pay attention on your next walk. You will spot the yellow flowers and bright green leaves everywhere. It's not a weed it is Tarassico or Dandelion in italian. Pick a generous handful, maybe fill one bag, if you have the patience. Wash it. Wash it. And then wash it again. Toss the leaves with a few slices of radishes, a few teaspoons of good olive oil and sherry vinegar. Scatter wedges of 8 minutes boiled eggs on top. Reward yourself with a bitter, crunchy salad.
Recipe by Silvia Baldini – Pay attention on your next walk. You will spot the yellow flowers and bright green leaves everywhere. It's not a weed it is Tarassico or Dandelion in italian. Pick a generous handful, maybe fill one bag, if you have the patience. Wash it. Wash it. And then wash it again. Toss the leaves with a few slices of radishes, a few teaspoons of good olive oil and sherry vinegar. Scatter wedges of 8 minutes boiled eggs on top. Reward yourself with a bitter, crunchy salad.
Triple wash the dandelion leaves, trim the roots and dry. Place in a large bowl. Slice the radishes thin. I use a mandolin or a sharp pairing knife. Scatter the radishes on top of the dandelion.
Make the dressing. In a small bowl or a mason jar. Whisk the sherry vinegar with the shallot and Dijon mustard.
In a thin, steady stream, whisk in the olive oil until emulsified. Stir in the honey, if using. Season with salt and pepper and stir.
Drizzle a few generous tablespoons of the dressing on the salad and toss gently. You can preserve the remaining vinaigrette covered in the fridge for a few weeks.
Add the sliced eggs on top of the dressed dandelion leaves and serve.
Recipe by Silvia Baldini—This is a mix between an Italian frittata and a Soufflé because the texture is light and fluffy. It rises high after you beat the egg whites to stiff peaks and you gently fold them in the egg mixture before cooking it in a hot pan with a splash of good olive oil. Herbs are a great addition to this frittata but any leftover cheese, ham or chopped vegetable would make a great filling. I particularly like a variation made with zucchini flowers if you can find any at the local market or in your garden. I like to serve it with green salad tossed with vinaigrette homemade by whisking extra virgin olive oil and peach or grapefruit white Balsamic.
Recipe by Silvia Baldini—This is a mix between an Italian frittata and a Soufflé because the texture is light and fluffy. It rises high after you beat the egg whites to stiff peaks and you gently fold them in the egg mixture before cooking it in a hot pan with a splash of good olive oil. Herbs are a great addition to this frittata but any leftover cheese, ham or chopped vegetable would make a great filling. I particularly like a variation made with zucchini flowers if you can find any at the local market or in your garden. I like to serve it with green salad tossed with vinaigrette homemade by whisking extra virgin olive oil and peach or grapefruit white Balsamic.
Preheat the oven to 350°F.
In a large metal bowl, whisk the 4 eggs. Add the Parmesan, heavy cream, parsley, and salt. Add the nutmeg and mix well. In a large metal bowl, beat the eggs whites with a small pinch of salt and the vinegar until they form stiff peaks. Slowly fold the whites into the frittata mixture.
Heat a seasoned medium cast-iron pan or nonstick pan over high and add enough oil to coat the bottom, then lower to medium. Gently pour the frittata mixture into the pan, lower the flame, and cook until the frittata doesn’t stick to the bottom, about 7 to 10 minutes. Finish the frittata in the oven, 5 to 10 minutes. The center should still be a little creamy. Serve immediately.
Recipe Notes
Tips:
If you are using a cast-iron pan, make sure to rub it with 1 cup kitchen salt and 4 tbsp oil. I also use a paper towel to rub the bottom of the pan in circular motions. This helps seal the pan and make it nonstick. Throw out the paper towel and salt mixture when you’re done.
Folding is a simple technique. The goal is to preserve the air you worked so hard to produce by beating the eggs. First spoon a small amount of egg whites into the mixture and beat vigorously to combine the molecules and even out the texture, then gently fold the rest of the whites in with a rubber spatula in 3 batches. If you really want to be precise and make sure the mixture is well combined, you can slowly turn the mixture from one bowl to the other and keep folding, repeating this process at least twice.
Variations:
Anything you have in your fridge will make a great frittata add-in. Some ideas and traditional variations:
Cubed Fontina Cheese and Ham
Four Cheeses
Sautéed Zucchini
Caramelized Onions
Cooked Spinach
Herbs
Leftover Spaghetti (a kids’ favorite)
Pancetta and Peas
The moment I become a mom I felt like I had made it to the top, then I came back from the hospital with a hungry, screaming, pooping machine. I looked like shit, I smelled even worst and I was pretty convinced I would not make it through the night; I’m happy to report back, 10 years later, I am alive, showered and somewhat mentally stable.
Being a mother, so far, has been the best and most fulfilling job/career/racket/diversion/horror-comedy show I have been in charge of. I love my kids; I love nurturing them. I love having a family.
Unlike Ivanka T., mommy survival mode to me has nothing to do with not having enough time to meditate or treat myself to a massage, but rather it reflects the constant state of chaos I live in as a working mom, burning the candle at both ends just hoping to make it all work.
Let’s give a shout to all the bad-ass mothers who don’t have millions under their mattresses, or a butler to make sure their every need is met along with their children’s. The ones who are just trying to raise good (clean) humans and make it from one day to the next in one piece. And the ones hoping that the folks in Washington will finally have our backs.
Once we are done shouting, lets cook a nice brunch for mom. I suggest a frittata.
The frittata is to Italy as the omelet is to France and just as much an art form. Every Italian family has its own recipe and masterful way of turn it. My mom made a great soufflé-like frittata by adding stiffly beaten egg whites, and she turned it on a large lid over the sink without ever breaking it. When turning my version of her frittata, I prefer to use a large plate and turn it by firmly holding the pan and the plate together with two hands and then quickly inverting both. Once the frittata is turned, I gently place it back in the pan and cook for a couple minutes more.
When I want to impress and am seeking extra height on my frittata, I don’t invert it. I finish it in the oven instead. You can also use a special double frittata pan. (Once, on a long overnight trip to Paris to visit family, my father, tired of my brothers and me quarrelling, produced one of these and swiftly but not so gently hit us over our heads. We were quiet the whole remainder of the trip. The pan was a gift for my relatives, or so he told us.)
I call this frittata No-Fear Soufflé because the texture is light and fluffy, and it can rise pretty high after the egg whites are folded in. It makes a lovely present for Mother’s Day when presented in a cast-iron pan, sprinkled with edible flowers and accompanied by a green salad and a sizable hug. #RESIST
Recipe by Silvia Baldini—This is a mix between an Italian frittata and a Soufflé because the texture is light and fluffy. It rises high after you beat the egg whites to stiff peaks and you gently fold them in the egg mixture before cooking it in a hot pan with a splash of good olive oil. Herbs are a great addition to this frittata but any leftover cheese, ham or chopped vegetable would make a great filling. I particularly like a variation made with zucchini flowers if you can find any at the local market or in your garden. I like to serve it with green salad tossed with vinaigrette homemade by whisking extra virgin olive oil and peach or grapefruit white Balsamic.
Recipe by Silvia Baldini—This is a mix between an Italian frittata and a Soufflé because the texture is light and fluffy. It rises high after you beat the egg whites to stiff peaks and you gently fold them in the egg mixture before cooking it in a hot pan with a splash of good olive oil. Herbs are a great addition to this frittata but any leftover cheese, ham or chopped vegetable would make a great filling. I particularly like a variation made with zucchini flowers if you can find any at the local market or in your garden. I like to serve it with green salad tossed with vinaigrette homemade by whisking extra virgin olive oil and peach or grapefruit white Balsamic.
Preheat the oven to 350°F.
In a large metal bowl, whisk the 4 eggs. Add the Parmesan, heavy cream, parsley, and salt. Add the nutmeg and mix well. In a large metal bowl, beat the eggs whites with a small pinch of salt and the vinegar until they form stiff peaks. Slowly fold the whites into the frittata mixture.
Heat a seasoned medium cast-iron pan or nonstick pan over high and add enough oil to coat the bottom, then lower to medium. Gently pour the frittata mixture into the pan, lower the flame, and cook until the frittata doesn’t stick to the bottom, about 7 to 10 minutes. Finish the frittata in the oven, 5 to 10 minutes. The center should still be a little creamy. Serve immediately.
Recipe Notes
Tips:
If you are using a cast-iron pan, make sure to rub it with 1 cup kitchen salt and 4 tbsp oil. I also use a paper towel to rub the bottom of the pan in circular motions. This helps seal the pan and make it nonstick. Throw out the paper towel and salt mixture when you’re done.
Folding is a simple technique. The goal is to preserve the air you worked so hard to produce by beating the eggs. First spoon a small amount of egg whites into the mixture and beat vigorously to combine the molecules and even out the texture, then gently fold the rest of the whites in with a rubber spatula in 3 batches. If you really want to be precise and make sure the mixture is well combined, you can slowly turn the mixture from one bowl to the other and keep folding, repeating this process at least twice.
Variations:
Anything you have in your fridge will make a great frittata add-in. Some ideas and traditional variations:
Cubed Fontina Cheese and Ham
Four Cheeses
Sautéed Zucchini
Caramelized Onions
Cooked Spinach
Herbs
Leftover Spaghetti (a kids’ favorite)
Pancetta and Peas
The Life-Changing Magic of Not Giving a F**K is a delicious little gem of a book by Sara Knight and it’s my kind of self-help book. Read what she said to the Guardian:
1 What Other People Think. This one is non-negotiable. All anxiety stems from here.
2 Having a bikini body. The day I stopped caring about how I looked in a bathing suit, it was like a litter of kittens in black leotards had tumbled down from heaven to perform Single Ladies for the sole enjoyment of my thighs and belly.
3 Taylor Swift. Nope.
4 Feigning sincerity. I am the embodiment of “If you don’t have anything nice to say, don’t say anything at all.” I just don’t fake it.
The Life-Changing Magic of Not Giving a F**K is liberating advise for all women stressed out, overbooked, underwhelmed by life. I follow the same philosophy in my kitchen. I keep it simple, if a guest doesn’t like my food it’s their problem not mine and when disaster strikes — say, dinners goes up in flames — I dial in for Sushi.
Here’s one more thought: spend your free time in the sunshine, away from the news and definitely not stressing in the kitchen.
Asparagus is easy enough to prepare. I geek out for asparagus at the farmers market or my local shops, as soon as March and April come around and I choose spears that are brightly colored and have a compact tip. Asparagus mimosa is a simple, fresh and easy way to cook this crisp, sweet spring vegetable. It’s also one of my Easter brunch favored dishes. Asparagus is a very good source of fiber, folate, vitamins A, C, E and K, as well as chromium, a trace mineral that enhances the ability of insulin to transport glucose from the bloodstream into cells. Asparagus is also a brain booster because it’s loaded with vitamin B12, a vitamin with anti-aging property and known to prevent cognitive impairment. Brain power for pretty ladies, now that’s my kind of no brainer brunch and the kind of veggie I love. #RESIST
Place your eggs in a pot of boiling water. Simmer for 9 minutes. Remove the eggs from the water and after cooling down for a couple of minutes, peel them.
Separate the yolks from the whites. Grate the yolks and the white in two different bowls. I like to use a coarse cheese grater.
Bend the asparagus until the tough bottom end snaps off. Discard the end. With a peeler gently remove some of the tough skin from the stalks.
Place the spears in a large pot of salted boiling water and cook for 3 to 6 minutes.
Drain and place in a large bowl. Drizzle the olive oil over the asparagus and sprinkle with the salt and pepper. Top with grated eggs, making sure not to cover thetas of the asparagus.
“A good dinner is of great importance to good talk. One cannot think well, love well, sleep well,
if one has not dined well.
― Virginia Woolf, A Room of One’s Own
Words I live by and the opening quote for “Time Table. A Tavola Nei Secoli”, a spectacular exhibition at Palazzo Madama, and the Queen Palace in Turin, my hometown in Italy. The show is a time travel through the centuries of table’s settings, manners, social rites and a showcase of stunning china and objects created by artists and artisans to adorn meals and dining tables. It takes place in the palace from June 24 to October 18.
Since I’m a bit of a geek when it comes to table settings I feel lucky to have been invited to see a preview of the show the week before its opening, when I’ll be a guest speaker at TurinEpi a 3 day food event organized by a true Food Goddess and friend Lucia Hannau. Lucia is featured this week in my Sharing Corner where you can read about her, her cooking tips and her food philosophy.
Immediately following the talks, and the eye feasting at Palazzo Madama, I intend to plant my self at Mulassano, one of the oldest bars in the historical center and quickly put my mouth to a more concrete use, and enjoy a full scale aperitif and to dig in to as many tramezzini, salatini and a negroni or two, while checking out the beautiful and well dressed passers by.
Tramezzini, shot by Silvia Baldini
While Torino and Piedmont are known for big wines, truffles, and a variety of truly impressive dishes, tramezzini are by far my favorite treat when I go home. They are the perfect food to share at a meal that is casual but refined. They are small and delicate and they showcase local ingredients in combinations that range from classic pairings to more surprising and complex combinations.
Of course no cutlery is necessary, but they should be served on fine-looking china, showcased on gracious trays, with pretty pressed linens.
They, at times, require some operational dexterity and manners when eaten while gossiping, checking out the latest fashion under the portici or chatting about the malevolence of the Euro, but they are sure to please the palate and the eye, something very necessary in Italy, a country where food is as important as “Bella Figura”.
It’s important to remember, when making tramezzini, the bread must be fresh, soft and never dry.
I often place a humid piece of cloth on the bread while working and preparing them and I take care to wrap them in film immediately after making them; I also always keep them sealed in the fridge until I’m ready to serve them.
White Bread, By Silvia Baldini
Butter, mayonnaise or a sauce has to be used for flavor and to keep the fillings in it’s place. The ingredients must be fresh and of good quality because there is not too much cooking involved and the flavor comes from the produce not the technique.
Fresh Ingredients By Silvia Baldini
Below is the top ten lists of my favorite combinations, the recipe for a good home made mayonnaise and the link to a Negroni recipe from the NYT made with Punt e Mes a vermouth invented in Torino by the Carpano family. I also have updated my Tray Chic page with some new ideas for table settings.
Place the egg yolks, the mustard, the salt and pepper in a blender. Blend at medium speed. When all combined and emulsified start pouring the olive olive with the motor going slowly. Add the lemon and the vinegar and taste for seasoning. If your mayonnaise splits, add one or two spoon of warm water and an extra egg yolk, then blend again.
There are glorious moments in the kitchen when things go exquisitely well and we picture our face,
in all its sweaty glory, on the cover of Bon Appétit and then, there is that slow motion, non returnable instant, when all goes terribly wrong. Every chef, every cook knows disaster can strike
in a split second.
We get distracted, we make mistakes, we make a mess, we don’t follow directions, or simply there is mechanical failure. Even Julia Child was no stranger to dropping the occasional raw chicken or letting her flambé’ turn in to serious flames.
I’m no stranger to those “OOPS Moment” myself. I have for sure had my share of flat cakes, bland soups, raw chickens, dry breads, explosive blenders, and bloody fingers. I could go on for days. Luckily, no one has to know. That’s when I’m in the privacy of my own little kitchen.
And that’s when I always leave my self some extra time to either cook something new or run out for rotisserie kitchen.
However there are those times when I have to cook live and I only have 30 minutes to do it right. I’m talking about this past weekend at the Audubon Greenwich, where I had the pleasure and the honor to be invited to do 3 cooking demonstrations during the Sustainable Farm Expo.
I was excited to work with fresh farm eggs, marinate and grill a yummy bavette steak, show how to home cure a salmon and use some great organic, local produce form the Westport Farmers Market.
Poached egg. 3 minutes.
While the eggs and home cured salmon where smooth sailing, my mise for steak was not in place and when I went to cook the beautiful grass fed steak, the burners were not working and the grill pan was cold.
Bavette steak demo.
There is a nothing fun about 50 piercing eyes, including the ones of the butcher, staring at you and the hungry silence that descends during a cooking demo going south. But there is always a way to come back north. Luckily I had an electric pan in the back. The steak was saved and so was lunch.
Following are a few tips for when Murphy’s Law “If anything can go wrong, it will” rears it’s ugly head and my recipe for home cured citrus salmon.
Never try something new and don’t improvise or substitute ingredients when cooking for guests.
Prep everything ahead. I mean everything.
Make lists of what you will need. Don’t forget your list.
Even ovens with the best intentions may be off, but an oven thermometer will solve the mystery of the real temperature.
Hot liquids will explode in a blender. Cool everything off before pushing the start button.
Keep your knives sharp.
Try everything before serving and before cooking.
Salt is your friend.
Don’t panic. Think.
Make ahead some pizzas, a meat stew, meatballs, soups, a pasta-bake and freeze all for emergencies.
Never apologize. If you are cooking for someone you are doing him or her a favor. Whatever the out come is they should kiss the ground you walk on or at least do your dishes.